Florida: May 2020

The Florida leg of our trek north began May 2, in Sebastian, FL, with stops at Satellite Beach, Titusville, New Smyrna Beach, and Jacksonville. Florida leg of our trek north Interactive map  After completing our great loop cruise in February when we crossed our wake in Vero Beach, we took a breather for a while with plans to re-group and re-provision for a long trip to the Bahamas beginning in April. Like just about every other plan made for 2020, our plan hit the dumpster with the Coronavirus pandemic. We spent a month at the Sebastian Inlet Marina and Boatyard getting our generator overhauled, replacing our anchor windlass, and doing major heavy-duty provisioning for two months in the Exumas. But during that time the Coronavirus storm clouds were brewing on the horizon. On March 18, we left Sebastian with the plan of heading south to Boca Raton and waiting there for a weather window to cross to Lucaya and then south through the Berrys and Nassau and finally the Exumas. We got as far as Peck’s Lake in Stuart. There we heard a US State department advisory against US citizens traveling abroad, and a day or so later a notice from the Bahamas that they were closing the border to new arrivals. We stayed at Peck's Lake for three nights mulling over what to do. Leaving the Sebastian River Marina at sunrise to spend 2 months in Bahamas Dinghy landing at Pecks Lake Sunrise at Pecks Lake Miles of deserted beach at Pecks Lake Bella collecting sand to deposit in the boat 🤣 BellaGatto at anchor at Pecks Lake We returned to Sebastian with our tails between our legs to make a new plan…we would head up north for Cape Cod or Maine for the summer and return to Florida in November and take another stab at the Bahamas in early 2021. While hunkered down in Sabastian self-isolating, we did some projects on the boat, most notably getting all new interior cushions made to replace our heavily worn 20-year-old upholstery. When we finally started our way north, our first stop was at the free dock at Samson's Island in Satellite Beach to meet up with our friends Bob and Nancy for some  a  buddy boating visit. After two nights we moved to our friend Jenn's dock just across the Grand Canal to visit and wait for our new cushions. On our way to the Canvas shop at the Eau Gallie Yacht Basin, we developed an odd problem. After running for a couple of hours, the starboard engine would not throttle up in gear from idle (although it would throttle up just fine in neutral). It seemed like a transmission problem, and after adding some fluid everything was OK, and I thought we were good to go. Sunrise view from the stern at Sebastian River Marina    Buddy boating with the Primacea at Samson's Island View from the starboard port at sunrise Getting ready to say goodbye to our friends Our new home for a few days at our friend's dock in Satellite Beach We had a 'bird's eye view' of this screech owl's nest right from our pilot house We love the updated look and comfort of these new cushions! With our beautiful and comfortable new cushions, we began the long trip north, with our first stop an anchorage near Titusville, where we discovered our transmission issue was still with us. We decided to keep on moving north while we tried to figure it all out. The next night we stopped at one of our favorite anchorages, Rockhouse Creek at New Smyrna Beach. Making some calls from there, we arranged with a mobile mechanic service to meet us at our next stop, Halifax Harbor Marina in Daytona Beach. There the mechanic diagnosed the problem as an internal fault in the transmission, and we ordered a brand-new transmission from ZF. While waiting for the new transmission to come in, we went up to Marineland Marina, south of St. Augustine. This marina has very reasonable transient rates and a great location right on the beach and right next to a nature preserve. Heaven on Earth for Bella. We spent a week and a half there enjoying the area. When our new transmission arrived, the transplant went very smoothly, and we were once again ready to go! Enroute to Titusville anchorage we passed right by the Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB) at NASA  We have to get to cooler weather! Note the time! This NASA RR bridge has not been used for years and is a great dog walking spot Sunrise at the RR bridge anchorage The full moon setting at Titusville anchorage  Bella on dolphin alert at the Haulover canal on the way to New Smyrna Beach (NSB) Social distancing visit with cousin Sue and David at NSB Enroute Rockhouse Creek anchorage Sunset at Disappearing Island, Rockhouse Creek Rising full moon at Rockhouse Creek anchorage Sand flat at low tide overlooking the Ponce Inlet lighthouse Morning walk at Disappearing Island at Rockhouse Creek Bella Says... Entering Daytona Beach area on the ICW Bella is not quite sure https://www.browniethetowndog.org/ Downtown Daytona on Friday afternoon during 'Safer at home." Halifax Harbor Marina, Daytona Marineland Beach at sunrise Marineland Marina at sunset Marineland Beach at low tide Marineland Beach at sunrise Social distancing Gold Looper meet up in St. Augustine Marineland Beach coquina outcropping at low tide Marineland Beach Leaving Marineland $5000 poorer but certain we had licked the problem, we cheerfully started out again and 25 miles later, when we had to slow down and come out of gear for a bridge, THE SAME DAMN THING HAPPENED AGAIN! Replacing the transmission at great expense had done nothing to fix the problem. We spent the rest of the day on the phone with the mechanic trying this and that, but it became pretty obvious he was grasping at straws and was stumped. Shit. Since the problem occurs only after a long run and goes away when the engine cools down again, we decided to keep going north until we get to Zimmerman’s Yard in Charleston. They specialize in diagnosing and fixing tough problems and have a no fix no pay policy. In the meantime, I’ll have to get good at docking with minimal help from the starboard engine. Our final stop in Florida that evening was at Sisters Creek near Jacksonville. This is nice floating FREE dock at a big park right near where the Intracoastal crosses the St. John’s River. We arrived right at slack tide, making my gimpy-engine docking a lot easier. We treated ourselves to the filet mignon steaks we had been saving with cocktails and a bottle of wine to cheer us up after our disappointing day. Tomorrow, Georgia and our old favorite, Cumberland Island! ReplyForward

WEEK 44 - The Final Stretch - St. Petersburg, FL to Vero Beach, FL

This week we end our Great Loop adventure by “crossing our wake,”  returning to the place we started from over 10 months ago. But first we have to get from our boatyard stop in St. Pete to our old home port in Vero Beach. Our stops along the way were at Venice (free dock), Fort Myers Beach (mooring), La Belle (free dock), Clewiston (marina), St. Lucie Lock (cheap dock) and then finally to Vero Beach (marina). We pushed along pretty hard, traveling every day.

It was a big scramble getting the boat put back together, cleaned up, and re-provisioned after all the work they did re-bedding hatches, removing, testing, and re-welding the fresh water tank, and doing major work on both engines, but we got out of there on schedule (if not under budget). After crossing Tampa Bay and going under the Sunshine Skyway bridge, we headed south in the Intracoastal about 50 miles to Venice, where we remembered a free dock we have stayed at before at Higel Marine Park. There we were able to catch up with our friends on Mountain Wave and take Bella for a nice walk on the beach before settling in for a quiet evening.

Preparing for departure from Coastal Marine Yacht Services

We'll have to start out dealing with the tail end of a front but it should clear by noon

The top of the Skyline Bridge is shrouded in fog

Beautiful late afternoon glow on Venice Inlet beach. Photo Credit: Deb from Mountain Wave

A beautiful morning beach walk before departing Venice

The next day was another 60 miles chugging down the intracoastal to Fort Myers Beach. Along the way, we stopped at Cape Haze Marina to fill up on diesel for the very good price of $2.55 per gallon. Proceeding south through Charlotte Harbor, we went right by some of our old favorite spots like Cayo Costa, Cabbage Key, and the Tween Waters Inn. We finally left Charlotte Harbor and the ICW at the Sanibel Bridge, hopping over to Matanzas Pass and Fort Myers Beach. There we picked up the last of the available mooring balls in the harbor ($15 per night) and dinghied over to Barnacle Bills to meet some old friends and soak up some beers.

A tight place to get in and out of but worth it for the fuel price. Jonathan had to back all the way out and spin in our footprint 

Sanibel light house

We had to wait for the Pirate ship to come through the skinny Matanzas pass before we could proceed

Shrimp fleet adjacent to the mooring field

Beers at Bonita Bills with Shannan and Greg 💓

Not a stitch of wind in the mooring field for our departure the next morning

In the morning it was back under the Sanibel Bridge to the start of the Okeechobee Waterway, a 145-mile shortcut between the Florida west coast and the east coast at Stuart. We will go through 5 locks on this route (yea, more locks!) which will lift us up to the lofty elevation of Lake Okeechobee (13 feet or so) and then back down to sea level. This first day we went through one lock and then on to the town of La Belle. La Belle has a great little amenity, a dock right near downtown with about 8 slips with water and electric where you can tie up for free for up to three days. It’s all first come first served, and when we arrived there was one spot left. It looked pretty tight to me, but the guys on the dock said there was plenty of room. Just as our bow was almost touching the dock, we wedged our 15 foot beam between the pilings on either side. No problem, and we were actually sitting very securely right where we wanted to be – we didn’t really even need dock lines, but we rigged some just for appearances. Bella got to go for a couple of nice long walks along the very pretty tree-lined streets, and we had a decent dinner out at the Forrey Grill

Underway to our first lock

After some of the locks on the inland river...piece of cake!

BellaGatto wedged into her slip in Labelle

The bar area has much better ambiance than the dining room at the Forrey Grill

Highway 29 bridge, Labelle, FL

Beautiful oak lined streets

This helps cut down on full time liveaboards monopolizing the dock

The next day was a relatively short 38 miles and two locks to Clewiston and Roland Martins Marina. We have stayed here before, and it’s quite an experience with a big marina/bar/gift shop/hotel/condo complex, all centered on bass fishing. We got settled in in time to take the marina courtesy car to a Mexican grocery for some takeout.

You have to love this part of Florida - built in trailer

Four PDQs pulled in right ahead of us at Roland Martin's

Peaceful evening at Roland Martin's

Getting ready to cross Lake O

Beginning well before dawn the next morning, the sound of bass boats idling by was a gentle alarm clock, and we got up pretty early and shoved off by 7:30 to cross the big lake. The lake crossing is almost 20 miles of open water, and it can get quite nasty on a windy day. We had a very pleasant trip across, sitting back and letting the autopilot drive. Before too long we were going through the Port Mayaca Lock to begin our journey down the St. Lucie Canal. After plodding down the canal for 25 or so miles, we came to the last of the locks, the St. Lucie Lock. Right before the lock, there is a little campground run by the Corps of Engineers that has docking with water and electric. With our Golden Eagle senior discount pass, it was only 15 bucks for the night. The dock was another tight fit, but we got into the last available spot. Our good friends Beth and Jim live nearby in Palm City, and they came out and joined us for drinks and dinner.

'Easy does it' for pulling into this slip

Today is the big day – our last day on the great loop. The day dawned very windy, and we were shoving off at 7:30 to lock down 12 feet through the St. Lucie Lock and make the last 15 miles of the Okeechobee Waterway to mile zero at the St. Lucie Inlet. At the inlet we turned north on to the good old Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and Vero Beach. By this time the wind was really honking out of the south and kicking up quite a chop, but it was a following sea for us and we had a nice ride up past Jensen Beach and Fort Pierce. By about two in the afternoon, the marina we left from over 10 months ago was in sight, and our cruising friends on Contentment were there at the fuel dock of the Vero Beach Municipal Marina to mark the occasion. Champagne was popped, and we changed out our white “looping in progress” flag for the yellow “loop completed” flag. We spent the night right next door at the Vero Beach Yacht Club and continued the celebration.

Lock number 156!

Going under the old Roosevelt Bridge

The name of the boat in front of us is Ciao. Fitting as this is our very last lock on the loop.

No more locks or bridges between us and home!

The Jensen Beach sailing school taking advantage of a windy day

Pulling into the fuel dock at the Vero Beach City marina

Our official 'Crossing our Wake' photo taken by Elizabeth on Contentment

Cheers to us! Photo credit: Elizabeth, Contenetment

We retired two white Looper flags. The first one we replaced in April at the Norfolk ACLCA  rendezvous.

What comes next? We will spend a month or so in the area here taking care of business and getting geared up for a couple months in the Bahamas….after that, who knows?