WEEK 21 & 22 - Beardrop Harbor, Ontario to Charlevoix, Michigan

After 2 nights at Beardrop Harbor and the best blueberry picking ever, it was time to head back to the states at last. Our final stop in Canada was at Blind Harbor (marina), thence to Drummond Island Michigan (anchor), Mackinac Island for 2 nights (marina), Petoskey for 2 nights (marina), and finally Charlevoix, where we will stay for 6 nights (marina).

Our stay at Beardrop was well sheltered from some strong west winds, and we thought we had waited them out and it would be OK to go the 50 miles straight to Drummond Island. But when we got out of the shelter of Whalesback Channel it was still an evil 2-3 foot steep chop right in the teeth. Rather than turn around, we decided to tough it out as far as Blind River, maybe 15 miles away. It was a tough 15 miles, and we were glad to get into a nice cozy slip for the night and visit the friendly little town using the marina’s loner bikes. Jayne and Christie took the bikes to the Boom Camp preserve to go hiking while I stayed behind to catch up on some projects. 

Leaving Blind River Marina bound for USA!

Overlook at Boom Camp trails

The next day was the day we were hoping for yesterday – almost flat calm and a relaxing crossing with the autopilot doing the driving. We stopped at a little gunkhole anchorage I remembered from my childhood days on the east end of Drummond Island called Pilot Cove. In my memory it was a secluded little slice of heaven. It was still secluded for sure, but when we pulled in, we were immediately assaulted by hordes of biting flies and had to beat a quick retreat. I guess I had forgotten about the flies.Before a hasty retreat we took down our Canadian flag and hoisted the yellow quarantine flag. From there it was about another 20 miles to the west end of Drummond Island, where we found a nice anchorage at Harbor Island and called in to clear US customs using the new CBP ROAM app, which was quick and painless. Harbor Island is a National Wildlife Refuge, and we did some hiking and dinghy exploring around what might be our last bit of wilderness for a while.

Goodbye Canada, it was nice to get to know you!

The yellow flag of shame

Hiking at Harbor Island National Wildlife Refuge

Harbor Island Anchorage

Sunrise dinghy ride at the anchorage

The next morning, we got up early for the 45 miles to Mackinac Island. This is a popular stop for loopers and a huge resort destination as well. Everything on the island is horse and buggy or bicycle – no automobiles or even golf carts and there is a restored revolutionary war era fort and the classic old Grand Hotel to add to the old-timey feel. I found it a bit of a too-cutesy overcrowded tourist trap, but we had a couple of nice days in the marina there riding bikes around the island and having a super fancy lunch at the Grand Hotel. We said goodbye to our cruising buddy boat Nomadic Spirit here – they are bound for the Wisconsin side of Lake Michigan. We have been with them a lot ever since New York, and we will miss their company for sure.

Early morning bike ride around the island before the day trippers arrive

Steve, Janice, DeeO'gee, Jayne and Jonathan

Going under the famous Mackinac bridge

Petoskey bound

Now it time to return to the mainland and the 21^st century. Our cruising guest Christy had to make arrangements to get back home, so we headed to the town of Petoskey on Little Traverse Bay. There we caught up some other looper boats we had not seen in a while – Cat n Dogs, a 40 foot Endeavour catamaran, and Golden Daze, a 55 foot Fleming. We also got to hook up again with a boat we enjoyed cruising with in the North Channel, the Apres Sail. So even with our old cruising buddy boat and our cruising guest leaving us, we were not all alone. The whole bunch went out for a Thai dinner in town and got caught up and exchanged stories of our various adventures.

Entering the breakwater at Petoskey city marina

Petoskey marina at sunrise

Great little breakfast spot

Jonathan, Jayne, Sonia, and Gregg (photo credit: Golden Daze)

At this point, the weather forecast were all in agreement that the weather was going to blow up soon and be pretty nasty for maybe 4 or 5 days. Rather than put down roots in Petoskey for that long, we made a reservation for 5 nights at the Charlevoix city marina, only 15 or 20 miles away. I spent a lot of time in Charlevoix in my youth, and I was interested to see what it was like almost 50 years later. The marina was fancier, and a lot of the old boat yards had been replaced by condos, but it was basically the nice little town I remembered.

Docktails with Pegasus, Golden Daze, LT Looper, Tiki Queen, and California Dreaming

Folks doing yoga on the waterfront. Need to be more aware of local happenings...

We even found time to take in a movie. Bring your tissues!!!

Farmer's market on the waterfront

Day trip to Gaylord (Elmira) MI to hike around on our friend Christie's property

Mushroom house!

To learn more about mushroom houses https://www.visitcharlevoix.com/Earl-Young_

Lots of trendy restaurants and cafes in Charlevoix

Mainstreet

BellaGatto

We will sit out the weather here and get a chance to sit back and relax for a while, and then get back on the looper track after a side trip to Northport and Traverse City, two other nostalgic spots from my past.

WEEK 20 - Covered Portage Cove, Ontario to Beardrop Harbor, Ontario

This week we are in the heart of the North Channel cruising grounds, an area that most loopers consider the highpoint of the whole trip. The weather has been for the most part outstanding, with maybe one rainy/windy day each week. Our stops this week were at Baie Fine (anchor 2 nights), Rous Island (anchor), The Benjamin Islands (anchor), Hotham Island (anchor), Kagawong (free dock), Gore Bay (marina), and finally Beardrop Harbor (anchor).

From Covered Portage it is just about 20 miles up long, narrow Baie Fine to another famous anchorage known as The Pool. This is where the Evinrude family had (and still does have) a summer cottage and where the family yacht, the Chanticleer, used to spend the summer. A highlight of this spot is a hiking trail leading up to Topaz Lake. The lake is clear and almost cobalt blue and makes for a refreshing swim after a steep hike up from the pool. Add some plentiful blueberry picking and you have the perfect spot, so we stayed two days.

Hiking trail that leads to Topaz Lake

Topaz Lake

Some loopers are gathering on the shore of the anchorage for docktails

Lots of loopers sharing stories, drink, and food at this gathering

The next major landmark in the North Channel route is the town of Little Current, where the channel pinches down to just a hundred yards across and is spanned by a swing bridge that opens for 15 minutes every hour. Even with the high water, we were able to squeeze under the bridge and stop at the town dock for a couple of hours for lunch, pumpout, and provisioning. Rather than stay in town we went a few miles west to Rous Island for the night. Not too spectacular here, but well protected from the prevailing wind and good holding and a place to land the dog, which is really all I ask for in an anchorage.

Lighthouse on the Point

A low swing bridge along the way to Little Current

Coming under the bridge at Little Current

                                                   

The next days anchorage was spectacular, or I should say SPECTACULAR! The Benjamin Islands are a North Channel icon, beautiful pink granite boulders in an archipelago that forms hundreds of cozy coves. Many boats tie up to trees on the shorelines, but we swung on a single hook out in the middle. You could explore around for a year here. There were a couple of other loopers here, and we had cocktail hour aboard Apres Sail and enjoyed yet another awesome sunset. With the red rays of the setting sun hitting the pink granite, the effect is almost psychedelic.

Christie at the helm watching carefully for rocks

Hiking on some of the rock formations that look over the anchorage

Anchorage views

Bella enjoying the hike

The water is cool and clear

Buddy boats BellaGatto and Nomadic Spirit rafted up at anchorange

The Benjamin Island rock formations

The next afternoon we went up to the northern shore of the North Channel to Hotham Island, along with Apres Sail and Nomadic Spirit. In this little cove there was a very nice cottage on shore and before too long the owner came out in her kayak to invite us up for sunset cocktails on her deck. In most places, there is some tension and sometimes hostility between cottagers and cruisers, and that made the invitation even more gracious and welcome.

BellaGatto at Hothom Island anchorage

The owners of this cottage invited everyone in the anchorage to join them for docktails

Sunset at anchor

Spectacular full moon

 

 Although it involved a lot of backtracking, we wanted to see Bridal Veil Falls on Manitoulin Island, so the next day we headed back to the south shore to the town of Kagawong where we tied up at the town dock. There was a nice ½ mile hike up to the falls along a trail lined with sculpture and other artworks to the falls, which you can walk around behind and swim in front of. We then had a late lunch up by the top of the falls before hiking back home. The town docks were empty, and the dockmaster offered us a cut rate deal if we wanted to stay the night, 20 bucks including electric. Yes, Please!

The trail to Bridal Veil Falls

Bridal Veil Falls

   

Kagawong church

The alter in this church is the bow of a boat

The Post Office museum

Exhibit from the Kagawong museum

Leaving the marina at Kagawong

It was now getting time for a full re-provisioning day, so we headed about 15 miles west to the town of Gore Bay where they have a nice city marina and lots of services. In a whirlwind day we went to a farmer’s market, grocery, did four loads of laundry, filled water tanks, filled propane tanks, emptied holding tanks, and still found time for a really nice dinner out.

Approaching Gore Bay marina

Off to dinner to the 1890 restaurant

Sunset view at Gore Bay

It's nice to have a fancy dinner out once in a while

Artfully arranged dinner of shrimp and seafood

Night view of the marina as the nearly full moon rises

The next morning, we said goodbye for now to our traveling buddy boat Nomadic Spirit and headed yet again to the north shore to Whalesback Channel and Beardrop Harbor, where we will spend two days waiting out some weather before heading out again. By the end of next week, we will be back in the good old USA after two great months in Canada.