Tuesday, August 13, 2019

WEEK 19 - Killbear, Ontario to Covered Portage Cove, Ontario

This week we broke away from the pack of other loopers a bit and struck out on our own over to the west side of Georgian Bay. Our stops this week were two nights in Tobermory (marina), Club Island (anchor) Killarney (marina) and two nights at Covered Portage Cove (anchor).


We had an early morning departure from Killbear for the long trip over to Tobermory. The weather was great, a 10 knot wind from the east that set up a gentle following sea for us the whole way. After being in the tight quarters and crowded waters of the canals and the 30,000 islands, it felt great to be out of sight of land with no boats on the horizon for a couple of hours. Tobermory is at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula and is home to two different Canadian National Parks, the Bruce Peninsula National Park and the Fathom Five Marine Park. The water here is clear Mediterranean blue and rocky cliffs and steep sided islands rise vertically from very deep water. When we pulled in to the municipal marina, the town was packed to the gills with tourists from Toronto there to hike on the Bruce Trail or to ride the glass-bottom boats to see historic shipwrecks and tour the unique geological formations of Flowerpot Island. We stayed two days to take it all in – the girls took the ferry over to Flowerpot Island, and I did some snorkeling on the wrecks in Big Tub Harbor.

Heading out to Georgian Bay from Killbear

Beautiful morning for a crossing

Ahhhh the open water again

Bella keeping a watchful eye for dolphins

Flower Pot Island shot from BellaGatto. See the old man's profile?

Flower Pot Island

Big Flower Pot shot while visiting Flower Pot Island


Hiking the Bruce Trail

Overlook from the Bruce Trail

Bruce Peninsula Provincial Park visitor center

 By the next day we could see the weather was fixing to close in a couple of days with 25-30 knot winds and some rain, so it was time to git while the gittin’ was good for the North Channel. It is about 50 miles from Tobermory to Killarney and about half way there is an anchorage at Club Island where we headed for the night. The bay at Club Island is roomy and well protected from every direction but the east. The holding is a bit iffy with a gravel bottom with muddy patches, but we managed to get a good bite in time to do some exploring before dinner. In one corner of the cove we found an old wood shipwreck and did a bit more snorkeling. The only good landing spot on the island is the remains of an old gravel mining operation, mostly just rock piles and poison ivy, but good enough for a landing spot for Bella.

Christy and Jonathan returning from snorkeling the wreck

Chicken Marsala on the hook

Mining spoils

The next day we had fair skies and light winds for the 30 miles to Killarney, the gateway between Georgian Bay and the North Channel. We were still pretty well provisioned up and pumped out from our stay in Tobermory, but we got a slip for the night anyway at the Sportsman’s Inn Marina, had a great fish and chips lunch at Herbert’s Fish Market, and got tucked in to our slip for the coming rain squalls and wind tonight.

Killarney General Store

Just a float plane cruising by

Touring Killarney

The next morning the rain let up around 9:00 and the wind was not forecast to really start blowing again until the afternoon, so we got squared away and beat feet a whopping three miles over to Covered Portage Cove (CPC). CPC always ranks in the top ten when some cruising magazine ranks the best anchorages in the world, so we didn’t want to miss it – and with good holding and 360 degree protection it is also a great place to ride out the next couple of windy days. CPC is indeed SPECTACULAR….surrounded by towering white quartz cliffs and pine trees. The wind is howling, and all we get is a little gust now and then. There are some hiking trails that go up the cliffs for sweeping vistas and blueberry picking, and Bella is in dog heaven. I think this is the first anchorage where we have ever spent more than one night on the trip, and I could stay forever.

Bella approved anchorage

Top of the world selfie

BellaGatto at anchor

Hiking at Covered Portage

Simply beautiful

Next week we will hit a couple other must see spots in Baie Fine, and probably finish up in the town of Little Current for the next round of pumpout and re-provision.

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