Tuesday, September 3, 2019

WEEK 21 & 22 - Beardrop Harbor, Ontario to Charlevoix, Michigan

After 2 nights at Beardrop Harbor and the best blueberry picking ever, it was time to head back to the states at last. Our final stop in Canada was at Blind Harbor (marina), thence to Drummond Island Michigan (anchor), Mackinac Island for 2 nights (marina), Petoskey for 2 nights (marina), and finally Charlevoix, where we will stay for 6 nights (marina).


Our stay at Beardrop was well sheltered from some strong west winds, and we thought we had waited them out and it would be OK to go the 50 miles straight to Drummond Island. But when we got out of the shelter of Whalesback Channel it was still an evil 2-3 foot steep chop right in the teeth. Rather than turn around, we decided to tough it out as far as Blind River, maybe 15 miles away. It was a tough 15 miles, and we were glad to get into a nice cozy slip for the night and visit the friendly little town using the marina’s loner bikes. Jayne and Christie took the bikes to the Boom Camp preserve to go hiking while I stayed behind to catch up on some projects. 

Leaving Blind River Marina bound for USA!

Overlook at Boom Camp trails

The next day was the day we were hoping for yesterday – almost flat calm and a relaxing crossing with the autopilot doing the driving. We stopped at a little gunkhole anchorage I remembered from my childhood days on the east end of Drummond Island called Pilot Cove. In my memory it was a secluded little slice of heaven. It was still secluded for sure, but when we pulled in, we were immediately assaulted by hordes of biting flies and had to beat a quick retreat. I guess I had forgotten about the flies.Before a hasty retreat we took down our Canadian flag and hoisted the yellow quarantine flag. From there it was about another 20 miles to the west end of Drummond Island, where we found a nice anchorage at Harbor Island and called in to clear US customs using the new CBP ROAM app, which was quick and painless. Harbor Island is a National Wildlife Refuge, and we did some hiking and dinghy exploring around what might be our last bit of wilderness for a while.

Goodbye Canada, it was nice to get to know you!

The yellow flag of shame


Hiking at Harbor Island National Wildlife Refuge

Harbor Island Anchorage

Sunrise dinghy ride at the anchorage

The next morning, we got up early for the 45 miles to Mackinac Island. This is a popular stop for loopers and a huge resort destination as well. Everything on the island is horse and buggy or bicycle – no automobiles or even golf carts and there is a restored revolutionary war era fort and the classic old Grand Hotel to add to the old-timey feel. I found it a bit of a too-cutesy overcrowded tourist trap, but we had a couple of nice days in the marina there riding bikes around the island and having a super fancy lunch at the Grand Hotel. We said goodbye to our cruising buddy boat Nomadic Spirit here – they are bound for the Wisconsin side of Lake Michigan. We have been with them a lot ever since New York, and we will miss their company for sure.

Early morning bike ride around the island before the day trippers arrive

Steve, Janice, DeeO'gee, Jayne and Jonathan

Going under the famous Mackinac bridge

Petoskey bound

Now it time to return to the mainland and the 21st century. Our cruising guest Christy had to make arrangements to get back home, so we headed to the town of Petoskey on Little Traverse Bay. There we caught up some other looper boats we had not seen in a while – Cat n Dogs, a 40 foot Endeavour catamaran, and Golden Daze, a 55 foot Fleming. We also got to hook up again with a boat we enjoyed cruising with in the North Channel, the Apres Sail. So even with our old cruising buddy boat and our cruising guest leaving us, we were not all alone. The whole bunch went out for a Thai dinner in town and got caught up and exchanged stories of our various adventures.

Entering the breakwater at Petoskey city marina

Petoskey marina at sunrise

Great little breakfast spot

Jonathan, Jayne, Sonia, and Gregg (photo credit: Golden Daze)

At this point, the weather forecast were all in agreement that the weather was going to blow up soon and be pretty nasty for maybe 4 or 5 days. Rather than put down roots in Petoskey for that long, we made a reservation for 5 nights at the Charlevoix city marina, only 15 or 20 miles away. I spent a lot of time in Charlevoix in my youth, and I was interested to see what it was like almost 50 years later. The marina was fancier, and a lot of the old boat yards had been replaced by condos, but it was basically the nice little town I remembered.

Docktails with Pegasus, Golden Daze, LT Looper, Tiki Queen, and California Dreaming

Folks doing yoga on the waterfront. Need to be more aware of local happenings...
We even found time to take in a movie. Bring your tissues!!!

Farmer's market on the waterfront

Day trip to Gaylord (Elmira) MI to hike around on our friend Christie's property

Mushroom house!


To learn more about mushroom houses https://www.visitcharlevoix.com/Earl-Young_

Lots of trendy restaurants and cafes in Charlevoix

Mainstreet

BellaGatto

We will sit out the weather here and get a chance to sit back and relax for a while, and then get back on the looper track after a side trip to Northport and Traverse City, two other nostalgic spots from my past.

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