WEEK 31 - Side trip from Pickwick Landing Park to Chattanooga, Tennessee

We had a great family visit with Betsy, Emily, and Lily at Pickwick Landing State Park where we got a cabin for the extra accommodations, did some nice woods hikes, and visited Shiloh National Battlefield. Just south of Pickwick, the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway branches off the Tennessee River. The “Tenn-Tom” is the main looper route south to Mobile and the Gulf of Mexico, but before we take that turn, we wanted to visit Chattanooga, which is another 250 miles up the Tennessee. The fall colors are now at their peak, and the trip through the fabulous Tennessee River Gorge was not to be missed. Our friends Bob and Nancy will join us partway up the route and stay with us a while in Chattanooga. Our stops along the way included Florence (marina), Joe Wheeler Sate Park (marina), Ditto Landing (marina), Goose Pond (marina), Shell Mound (free dock), and finally Chattanooga (marina). Although the route starts and ends in Tennessee, most of the way we will actually be in northern Alabama.

Uncle Jonathan and Lily

We all loved being in the woods 

Captain Emily at the helm

Touring the Shiloh battlefield monuments

Auntie time

Auntie time too

Beautiful day to take a little spin around Pickwick

The first day of the side trip was a straightforward and uneventful 50 miles to the town of Florence, Alabama. We were heading upriver into a 1-2 knot head current, which slowed us down a bit but gave more time to appreciate the scenery along the way. The marina in Florence had a nice courtesy van, which we took advantage of to go to Lowe's and out to an excellent Thai dinner at Yumm in the old downtown.

Panko encrusted fried oysters with Thai slaw at Yumm

Pad Thai: a classic but well done!

The next day was only 25 miles to Joe Wheeler Sate Park, but it also included two massive locks, the Wilson Lock and the Wheeler lock. These locks are not a large as the monsters on the Mississippi, but they make up for it in lift – between the two of them we go up 130 feet! Joe Wheeler (named after a Confederate general, natch) is a sprawling marina/resort/convention center in a forested cove just off the river above the Wheeler Lock. Usually a super busy place, this late in the season we had it pretty much to ourselves. Not too long after we got tied up, our friends Bob and Nancy called to say they were on their way from Chattanooga. They are leaving their car there and getting a ride service to bring them to Joe Wheeler, and they come bearing a care package of a case of wine and other goodies from Trader Joe’s in Atlanta. We had a nice reunion and took a little walk through the park to see the sun set before a fine dinner on board.

Locking up!

The white pelicans were abundant

View from our slip at Joe Wheeler

If there is a trail in the woods, we're gonna be on it

Spectacular sunsets this time of year

 After breakfast in the Wheeler Lodge restaurant the next morning, we were bound for Ditto Landing Marina. This is 60 miles upstream, but no locks today to deal with. Along the way we passed through the industrial town of Decatur, with cement and grain facilities and a cat food factory along the river. This was really the only interruption in a long journey through rolling hills, dense forests and fancy vacation homes dotting the shore. Ditto Landing is near the town of Huntsville, best known for the US Space and Rocket Center and the Redstone Arsenal. We took advantage of the marina’s deal for a free overnight slip with the purchase of 100 gallons of diesel and had a quiet evening aboard.

Bob at the helm

A curling up pup who loves the calm of the inland rivers

Oil slick calm today on the Tennessee river

Sunset brings the bass fisherman back to the dock at Ditto

The next morning was a short 5 miles to the Guntersville Lock, which opened right up for us, and then  another 40 to Goose Pond Marina near the town of Scottsboro, Alabama. The big claim to fame here is the Unclaimed Baggage Center, where the airlines send all the bags that get lost and the store sells the contents. We took the marina’s courtesy car there, and it was mostly pretty lame, except Nancy found a nice high end down jacket for a low price. On the way back we stopped at Tractor Supply for dog food and engine oil and the Piggly Wiggly for a few groceries (glamourous, huh?). We did have a nice dinner out at a restaurant on the marina site, which had outstanding shrimp and grits.

Lots of eagles and shorebirds on the river

Nancy on lock duty

Bob and I take the midship and bow

Gotta give it a try! 

Delicious shrimp and grits at the Dock Restaurant located at the marina

At this point the river turns back to the north and the land on both sides starts to get steeper and we had a cloudy and drippy 50 miles to a free dock just past Nickajack Lock. This is the last lock on our trip upstream, and we are now at 635 feet above sea level. The rest of the loop is all downhill from here! The free dock is part of a TVA park and launch ramp facility. It has some nice big sturdy docks (without electric) and pretty grounds. Here we got to meet up with Seabatical, who just finished the loop and crossed their wake and are now on the way to their home port near Chattanooga.

The scenery is starting to change 

Bob and Nancy enjoying the departure. Nancy sporting her new coat 😃

Scenic views all along the river

Finally, it was time for the final push to Chattanooga! As fabulous as the scenery has been so far, everyone has been telling us we ain’t seen nothing yet. We have a beautiful crisp sunny day for the trip and are very excited for the last 30 miles and the Chattanooga Gorge, sometimes called “The Grand Canyon of the Tennessee”. Well, all I can say is WOW! The river twists and turns back on itself through a channel with thousand-foot mountains on each side and the fall leaves are absolutely on fire. Despite all the beauty we have seen on the trip, this is the scenic highlight, and well worth the 500 mile round trip detour all by itself. But at the end of the line is another treat, the hip and vibrant city of Chattanooga. Chattanooga has a vibe somewhat like Asheville, with lots of brew pubs fantastic restaurants, and a hopping night life. We spent a couple of days here, highlighted by a visit to the Tennessee Aquarium and a drive up to the top of Lookout Mountain, which combines a stunning view with some Civil War history.

Surrounded by mountains adorned in fall colors

Beautiful views the whole way!

Bob at home at the helm

Paddle fish which are native in the Tennessee river

Jonathan and the quite large turtle shell

I love me an alligator

Living coral and tropical fish display

Chattanooga Aquarium Freshwater building

Chattanooga Aquarium Salt water building

Blooming azaleas?? Not for long with the arctic blast that blew through

Sculptures and other art installations throughout the city

We are staying here a couple of extra days to let a cold front blow through (it will dip below freezing, brrr!) and then it’s hey for the Tenn-Tom and Mobile!